End of Galapagos

Good-bye Galapagos

Las Grietas

In the late afternoon I took a water taxi for 80 cents to go across the harbor to a special swimming place called Las Grietas. It was a long hot walk as I stumbled over lava rocks on the path to las Grietas. When I finally arrived, hot and sweaty, the canyon walls of this swimming grotto were cool and dark shading the water. Teenagers were jumping from the top of the hot cliffs into the cool deep water. (I walked to the bottom and slid in) I floated on my back staring up at the blue sky staring at the birds of prey circling above. A deep shade filled the canyon. I had to hurry back because sunset comes early and fast at the equator. A great way to end the day.

Las Grietas

Tortuga Bay

Tortuga Bay Beach was 45 minute walk along a paved path but it was worth it. The beach had pure white sand, turquoise water, crashing waves and black lava rocks scattered around. We walked further to where there was a calm bay where the sand stretched gently into the water. We sat under some trees protected from the sun. I actually swam a bit but even though the water looked like the Caribbean, it felt like New England. I took a short nature walk next to the beach to see the marine iguanas who spit salt at me through their nostrils. They like to rest in groups piled up and blocking the path. They are ugly but fascinating.

Concha de Perla

Every day on Isabela I took a quick dip at the Concha de Perla so I could snorkel ans swim with the sea lions. I loved the sea lions! One followed me in the water and then came straight at me and dived beneath me. Another tried to tempt me into a game of fetch with a piece of seaweed. They sleep on the boardwalk on the way to the swimming area. You are not supposed to touch them but one time I couldn't resist and I touched the fur on one's back. It was so soft.

Las Tintoreras

Las Tintoreras are series of small islands outside the harbor. I went snorkeling and saw sea urchins, a sea turtle, barracudas, and the usual colorful fish. From land we viewed white tipped sharks sleeping in a narrow rocky channel. Small marine iguanas leaped over the channel to avoid the sharks who supposed sleep all day and hunt only at night. It was late afternoon and the marine iguanas were piling themselves up in preparing for the cold night. We left before the sharks started their feeding time!

Tintoreras

marine iguanas

North Seymour

The tour to North Seymour island was a luxury tour compared to the other tours we went on. The boat was large with comfortable seats, two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Lunch was an elegent three course affair in contrast to the cheese sandwiches and apples we received on the other tours. We first stopped at the Bachas beach, so named because the US Navy had a station here during WWII and abandoned all their old barges here on this beach. The barges are gone but the locals still call it the Bachas. We saw a flamingo and I saw my first eel while snorkeling. It looked too much like a snake for comfort.

The best part of the tour was North Seymour island itself. First, the birds. I loved the male frigate birds with their bright red chests puffed up like balloons. A popular female might have five males in the same tree with her—all trying to impress her with their massive chests and resonant whistles that used the chests like a sounding board. I also loved the blue-footed boobies that did a mating dance by stomping their feet showing off their colorful blue feet. Apparently a good blue color comes from good nutrition so the females will choose the most colorful and therefore healthiest mate. Both types of birds had nests of fuzzy white chicks.

Another new animal for us was the land iguana (as opposed to the marine iguana). They look pretty similar to the marine iguana except that they take on the color of the food they eat. Recently yellow flowers had been plentiful so all the land iguanas were yellow.

male Frigate bird

land iguana